Can anyone give me a realist value of these 2 notes? Suriname P-102 and Lebanon P-2

Hello - I have a couple notes that I am not sure of the realist value based on condition… can anyone help me?

Thanks!!

Bill

Suriname 1920 - 1 Gulden - P-102

and

Lebanon 1925 - 50 Piastres - P-2

The Suriname note doesn't seem to be in the Numista catalogue. It is quite valuable in any grade.

Not being an expert, I would say this one grades as “Fine” but with some significant problems since it was mounted with scotch tape at some point, and damaged when the tape was removed. Still, a desirable note worth about $800 in my older (2014) Krause-Cuhaj World Paper Money. I don't know if the low serial number brings any premium on this series.

The Lebanese note is in the catalogue. I would grade it at least at F+ if not VF. If I'm right, it's also worth in the $800+ range ─ probably more since my catalogue is 9 years old.

WOW! 

That is great news!! I really thought it would be less considering the condition (which I am really bade at grading). I think you for your thoughts!!!

:-) 

Bill

Apologies… I read the wrong line in the Krause catalogue. It is actually $500 in “F” condition for the Lebanese 50 piastres.

BUUUUT … I may have been conservative in my evaluation anyway. In eBay via picclick, the search Lebanon 1925 produces only the 25 piastres, valued in Krause at $300 in “F” condition (compare with $500 for the 50). Well, four different sellers have the 25 piastre going for 3 to 6 times the values I gave you. Now, if it were me I would inquire further before rejoicing. I don't know about Lebanese notes and I'm not sure what's going on here…

You will also see that two of the notes have been graded by PMG.

Wow, two super notes! Nice.

I would grade the first note at Good to Very Good overall, value around 500 USD.

I would put the Lebanese note at Fine (taking the taped tear into consideration) overall. Value 300-500 USD.

[Values based on Standard Catalog of World Paper Money, 16th ed. 2016]

Both are highly collectible, and notes of these eras tend to sell in auction in all grades.

Ebay buy it now listings are not a reliable estimate of value for notes. Auctions on ebay tend to be more reliable.

You could also check past sales in noonans.co.uk, spink.com, ha.com

P-102 from Suriname looks G to VG to me due to the heavy soiling, edge tears, & lack of design along vertical & horizontal folds (visible most on the reverse). But that's not really what will keep this note in the dealer's display case.  Both notes have serious issues & would be labelled on most certifications (except perhaps Legacy & some of the more dubious, loose/fancy free TPG's).  

P-102 has two damaged areas on the top left and top right corners (missing design into the border). It also has two major stains on the bottom border.  Although this note is G to VG it is probably the better of the 2 notes. It shows well, design is centred & has decent eye appeal considering the grade (& damage).  The stains & damage are mostly on the border (don't detract from the design that much).

P-2 (from Lebanon) looks VG to Fine (Net) but has tape (or tape residue) on the back which was used to repair the split. This note I would not touch because it appears to have been bleached/definitely washed &/or altered/processed in some way.  When you see that one side is so faded you know that that there's a problem. Compare its colour with a normal P-2 and you will notice it is pinkish instead of green & brown (suggesting bleach or a cleaner). “Net” & “apparent” grades rarely sell well & while this is a scarce note, I know if it were me I'd sit on my hands.

Due to these numerous issues, I hate to even comment on this forum for fear of backlash.  I'm sorry Bill but I would deduct the values that have been suggested by as much as 50% (at a real auction). The notes would have to be certified & that's the full disclosure that will scare quite a few away. Most collectors who seek scarce notes at this level know their stuff & will gravitate towards TPG due to the expense. You may get better results from a few low-ball high rollers who get sucked into a bidding war on “planet eBay” where everyone is an expert. 

Try to remember that the catalogues are just suggesting a value to the right collector.  They're not gospel.  Also, “planet eBay” is called planet eBay for a reason: its a world separated from the real world!  Many sellers there have to factor in the 15% seller's fees, etc & currently you can probably fair better at a LCS than from most sellers there.

Thanks for your expertise, Serial_Number_8. 

If I understand well, damage reduces the grade of a note. So, it would be different from coins, where a coin is graded, and then problems are listed separately (cleaned, holed, etc.). Without the damage to the Suriname note, I can't see how it would even be close to G, especially with respect to soiling and the fact that the paper is nowhere separating along the major folds. But again, you're the expert.

As for the Lebanese note more specifically, I assumed that a note which was enhanced in the way you suggest would have been pressed, but the photo suggests otherwise (I opened it in a new tab for full size). I noticed, too, that one side was lighter than the other, but this seems not much different from other such notes. Yet, it's something to consider, of course.

One thing that would concern me and that I forgot to mention earlier is that there are paper reproductions of this note. I do not know whether the watermark shows well in these but this is something to investigate.

Now, I am not sure what to think about note grading any longer, and I know we have discussed this before. I tend to compare my notes (or notes I would like to buy) with graded notes online, which is easy enough to do. To take a large comparative sample from the same period, here are, for example, all Canadian 1923-dated note PMG graded on eBay … Legacy Currency Grading … and BCS grading. I'm providing these links just to show whoever reads this thread that there are ways to “self-grade” notes, but the range of what qualifies as “F” or “VF” seems to be much wider than for coins. Based on previous discussions, one would need to know when the note was graded, which perhaps I would do if I were considering the purchase of an expensive note…

Damage to a note should be listed in addition to its grading. For example: ‘ink annotation on reverse, three pin holes in portrait, otherwise VF’, or ‘cleaned, otherwise Fine’.

I have noticed that the standards of the grading companies have declined over the years. Also, some of the grading from each of the companies is inconsistent.

Hibernia

Damage to a note should be listed in addition to its grading. For example: ‘ink annotation on reverse, three pin holes in portrait, otherwise VF’, or ‘cleaned, otherwise Fine’.

 

I have noticed that the standards of the grading companies have declined over the years. Also, some of the grading from each of the companies is inconsistent.

Interesting ─ I thought they had improved over the years. But as you point out, even looking at TPGs individually, there is much inconsistence. We see some of that with coins, but much less.

Well… “buy the coin/note, not the holder” remains the golden rule.

If I understand well, damage reduces the grade of a note. So, it would be different from coins, where a coin is graded, and then problems are listed separately (cleaned, holed, etc.). Without the damage to the Suriname note, I can't see how it would even be close to G, especially with respect to soiling and the fact that the paper is nowhere separating along the major folds. But again, you're the expert.

I'm no expert but have collected for a while & have seen many low grade notes.  Hibernia is correct “damage does not reduce the grade” but wear from circulation, soiling, fraying & paper integrity do. Damage is noted. A certifier takes the entire note into consideration comes up with a grade & lists the issues. I may have been a bit critical on the 102 & it may be more of a "Fine" on the front but the back is probably more G-VG (I would suspect). When there's a discrepancy between the front & back they often just come up with a sum/net like VG-8. Of course its also very difficult to go by scans & much more appropriate to inspect the note in person. Recently, I had a collector ask me about a Dominion of Canada 1923 $2 which appears to be about the same condition & the top border looked suspicious (likely trimmed).  Most of these scarcer expensive notes with issues like these are still very tough to sell (the reasons being many but I wont get into them).

I have noticed that the standards of the grading companies have declined over the years. Also, some of the grading from each of the companies is inconsistent.

Yes: grading companies are definitely inconsistent, especially amongst the lower grades.  Certifiers are people & subjective so some will be very liberal while others will be conservative.  In general, the standards amongst US certifiers seems to have gotten more liberal too (especially with the awarding of UNC70's that's been seen on many notes).  Always buy the note, not the holder!  This is one of the reasons I will never be a grade rarity collector. 

One thing every paper currency collector should consider is buying notes without a "Q" when buying VF to UNC.  The “Q” (as in EPQ for PMG, & PPQ for PCGS) stands for “Quality” & means the paper is original.  If there's no Q then the note has been altered in some way. For me- no Q means all bets are off (as the note has probably been processed).  Sometimes this is no big deal (esp if you can inspect the note in person & ignoring it can save you money) but when it comes to VF-UNC expensive notes (& you're buying online) then you should really PASS on the note & try for the Q or original designation (to avoid cleaned/altered notes). 

Camerinvs

 

Well… “buy the coin/note, not the holder” remains the golden rule.

I do. And I remove the notes from the holders on the occasions that I get graded notes.

Camerinvs

Apologies… I read the wrong line in the Krause catalogue. It is actually $500 in “F” condition for the Lebanese 50 piastres.

 

BUUUUT … I may have been conservative in my evaluation anyway. In eBay via picclick, the search Lebanon 1925 produces only the 25 piastres, valued in Krause at $300 in “F” condition (compare with $500 for the 50). Well, four different sellers have the 25 piastre going for 3 to 6 times the values I gave you. Now, if it were me I would inquire further before rejoicing. I don't know about Lebanese notes and I'm not sure what's going on here…

 

You will also see that two of the notes have been graded by PMG.

 

 

Thanks very much for your knowledge. It is very much appreciated !

Hibernia

Wow, two super notes! Nice.

 

I would grade the first note at Good to Very Good overall, value around 500 USD.

I would put the Lebanese note at Fine (taking the taped tear into consideration) overall. Value 300-500 USD.

[Values based on Standard Catalog of World Paper Money, 16th ed. 2016]

 

Both are highly collectible, and notes of these eras tend to sell in auction in all grades.

 

Ebay buy it now listings are not a reliable estimate of value for notes. Auctions on ebay tend to be more reliable.

You could also check past sales in noonans.co.uk, spink.com, ha.com

 

Thank you! I appreciate getting your opinion!

Serial_Number_8

P-102 from Suriname looks G to VG to me due to the heavy soiling, edge tears, & lack of design along vertical & horizontal folds (visible most on the reverse). But that's not really what will keep this note in the dealer's display case.  Both notes have serious issues & would be labelled on most certifications (except perhaps Legacy & some of the more dubious, loose/fancy free TPG's).  

 

P-102 has two damaged areas on the top left and top right corners (missing design into the border). It also has two major stains on the bottom border.  Although this note is G to VG it is probably the better of the 2 notes. It shows well, design is centred & has decent eye appeal considering the grade (& damage).  The stains & damage are mostly on the border (don't detract from the design that much).

 

P-2 (from Lebanon) looks VG to Fine (Net) but has tape (or tape residue) on the back which was used to repair the split. This note I would not touch because it appears to have been bleached/definitely washed &/or altered/processed in some way.  When you see that one side is so faded you know that that there's a problem. Compare its colour with a normal P-2 and you will notice it is pinkish instead of green & brown (suggesting bleach or a cleaner). “Net” & “apparent” grades rarely sell well & while this is a scarce note, I know if it were me I'd sit on my hands.

 

Due to these numerous issues, I hate to even comment on this forum for fear of backlash.  I'm sorry Bill but I would deduct the values that have been suggested by as much as 50% (at a real auction). The notes would have to be certified & that's the full disclosure that will scare quite a few away. Most collectors who seek scarce notes at this level know their stuff & will gravitate towards TPG due to the expense. You may get better results from a few low-ball high rollers who get sucked into a bidding war on “planet eBay” where everyone is an expert. 

 

Try to remember that the catalogues are just suggesting a value to the right collector.  They're not gospel.  Also, “planet eBay” is called planet eBay for a reason: its a world separated from the real world!  Many sellers there have to factor in the 15% seller's fees, etc & currently you can probably fair better at a LCS than from most sellers there.

Thank you! Those are some very good points! I was not looking to sell these notes. I also posted this question on a couple FB groups. Though I did not get any real answers… BUT I did get some offers, and to say the least, they were significantly higher than everyone suggested. Considering what I paid, I could not pass up the offer (we should finalize tomorrow).  This will give me th chance to get some notes that were out of my price range before. But I very much appreciate this and the follow up conversations!

Serial_Number_8

P-102 from Suriname looks G to VG to me due to the heavy soiling, edge tears, & lack of design along vertical & horizontal folds (visible most on the reverse). But that's not really what will keep this note in the dealer's display case.  Both notes have serious issues & would be labelled on most certifications (except perhaps Legacy & some of the more dubious, loose/fancy free TPG's).  

 

P-102 has two damaged areas on the top left and top right corners (missing design into the border). It also has two major stains on the bottom border.  Although this note is G to VG it is probably the better of the 2 notes. It shows well, design is centred & has decent eye appeal considering the grade (& damage).  The stains & damage are mostly on the border (don't detract from the design that much).

 

P-2 (from Lebanon) looks VG to Fine (Net) but has tape (or tape residue) on the back which was used to repair the split. This note I would not touch because it appears to have been bleached/definitely washed &/or altered/processed in some way.  When you see that one side is so faded you know that that there's a problem. Compare its colour with a normal P-2 and you will notice it is pinkish instead of green & brown (suggesting bleach or a cleaner). “Net” & “apparent” grades rarely sell well & while this is a scarce note, I know if it were me I'd sit on my hands.

 

Due to these numerous issues, I hate to even comment on this forum for fear of backlash.  I'm sorry Bill but I would deduct the values that have been suggested by as much as 50% (at a real auction). The notes would have to be certified & that's the full disclosure that will scare quite a few away. Most collectors who seek scarce notes at this level know their stuff & will gravitate towards TPG due to the expense. You may get better results from a few low-ball high rollers who get sucked into a bidding war on “planet eBay” where everyone is an expert. 

 

Try to remember that the catalogues are just suggesting a value to the right collector.  They're not gospel.  Also, “planet eBay” is called planet eBay for a reason: its a world separated from the real world!  Many sellers there have to factor in the 15% seller's fees, etc & currently you can probably fair better at a LCS than from most sellers there.

Thank you! Those are some very good points! I was not looking to sell these notes. I also posted this question on a couple FB groups. Though I did not get any real answers… BUT I did get some offers, and to say the least, they were significantly higher than everyone suggested. Considering what I paid, I could not pass up the offer (we should finalize tomorrow).  This will give me th chance to get some notes that were out of my price range before. But I very much appreciate this and the follow up conversations!

@npsparkranger

Nicely done on getting a good price for them.

Hello all,

This thread is very interesting in many respects. It's a microcosm of the clashes of opinions and ideas that we see in the wonderful world of coin and note collecting. So, I thought I would make a few points, some of which will be, I believe, in respectful disagreement with some of the views expressed above. I am from the academic side of things, where frank discussions of opinions and ideas used to be the main source of advancement of knowledge. Unfortunately, this is not any longer so true ─ especially on the Humanities side of things where militant “scholars” have become the thought police on campus. I was myself a victim of these grievance “scholars”. Universities in the "West" are becoming corporations pandering to their patrons (i.e. the students, who are now in many ways victims of indoctrination). Even the science side of campus is plagued with current ideological post-modernist garbage. And administrators pander to the loud-mouthed militants ─ truly a despicable situation. Imagine ─ saying that there are two biological sexes among mammalians (including humans) has become heresy. (And by the way, I am firmly on the left.)

First of all, items (coins / notes / stamps / etc.) damaged in some way or other: holed, polished, tooled (😱), stained, pinholed, teared, cleaned, inscribed, pressed, bleached (😱), sunned (😱), etc. I remember a thread on holed coins where there was a discussion on grading and value. Some were adopting the black and white (and dogmatic) approach that a holed coin is worthless. Actually, a valuable coin or note can remain desirable even holed. I have a few holed coins that hopefully I will be upgrading some time in the future. One of them, for example, is an 1875 Canadian 10¢ which I got on an eBay auction. The seller used to hold auctions of about 300 items every week, with coins and notes up for grab something like twice a month. Well, this holed piece was one of the many lots and I got it for well below 50% of the value of a problem-free one. In my checklist, the grade box [VF] (followed by “holed” in my comments section) is shaded to indicate it's a space filler (though a reasonably high grade one for this scarce date).

Still, “no-nos” for me include the three categories above which I marked with a 😱 ─ tooled, sunned, and bleached items. Ancient coins are prone to be tooled, i.e. having their features enhanced by crooks, though I don't rule out the possibility that “restorations” of this sort were the norm in the Renaissance, but still, it's something that I would never purchase intentionally. I don't think I have a single tooled coin, but who knows… Likewise, the common problem of notes or stamps described as "sunned" is a no-no for me. This might happen when a note was framed and exposed to too much light, including… of course… direct sunlight.

eBay buy-it-now values: I do agree there is a huge range of values. Some sellers are actually professional coin dealers and I tend to rely on them. In my opinion a good way to assess the competence of a seller is how they describe their items. Sometimes, too, you get a professional and honest seller who is putting up for sale a bunch of coins or notes with which he/she is unfamiliar. This is often the case with sellers who, in some way, end up with a collection of ancient coins when their usual offerings are modern. They don't have the time to go through all this difficult material and put it up for sale at prices that may be slightly off in one or the other direction. If they care about their reputation, they won't try to sell a small 4th-century Constantius II bronze for $100.

In the case of the Lebanese note, however, there are four or five sellers who seem to have fair prices based on what I have seen of their other items. This at least is worth taking into consideration, but not without further investigation, as I pointed out in those earlier replies. If it was only one seller offering his note for $1000 while two others offered the same for $300 then of course the $300 price would seem much more honest. I suspect eBay is now the biggest collectibles market in the world. I know that with respect to bookstores, many have closed their brick-and-mortar store and (sadly) moved to a storage building in the suburbs because it's cheaper to sell online (e.g. Atticus in Toronto, who “moved” to  Abebooks), even if they lose a part of their clientele. I suspect coin dealers are doing the same… sadly again, though I know some who are better known for their brick-and-mortar location, but maintain a presence on eBay or other such platforms.

Apologies for the long reply! I'm actually saving the whole thread for future reference. 

Hibernia

@npsparkranger

Nicely done on getting a good price for them.

- I couldn't agree more.  For reasons I cannot wrap my head around, the world currency market still remains strong (esp for the tougher notes).  @npspakranger, If you are being offered a price higher than the estimates, I would say jump at the opportunity.

It is really important to remember, when talking about what a coin/banknote is worth, that the market is always in flux (somewhat) & dependent on how many buyers your coin/note is exposed to.    This why we pay premiums to have our items sold (the more prominent auction houses the more expensive to sell).   What a note will sell for is a different matter.  eBay has great exposure but it is a bit like a flea market (buyers take their chances) & a lot of buyers expect bargains (which is great).  This has become a lot more uncommon as eBay transitions from an auction platform to a "Buy it Now" BIN platform due to high seller's fees (fewer sellers can afford to sell auction style). 

First of all, items (coins / notes / stamps / etc.) damaged in some way or other: holed, polished, tooled (😱), stained, pinholed, teared, cleaned, inscribed, pressed, bleached (😱), sunned (😱), etc.

-Camerinvs, I'm okay with with damaged, cleaned & processed (& even restored) banknotes so long as there's full disclosure (which usually means a TPG statement on the back of the holder). Unfortunately, when it comes to many items on the marketplace there is no revelation & new collectors get burned.  My problem is with the countless sellers who do not disclose & try to sell a note without describing the issues. And I especially dislike those who improve the appearance of a note & make a profit from that.  Many eBay sellers could care less about full disclosure.  I hate to write that but I feel after being on eBay for about 20 years that I can safely say it's true from my experience.

Full disclosure has become less a factor for many of the upscale auction houses b/c it is their policy to send the note/coin for TPG (if hasn't already been certified/slabbed).  Unfortunately, as many of you veterans know, consistency amongst TPG is pretty spotty & I have yet to see one Legacy note with a NET or comment on the back. The other thing that nags at me is that the TPG's no longer identify the issue (if the note doesn't receive a Q).  On top of this, the auction houses do get it wrong (including crazy off the mark attributions) with occasional descriptions that border on hyperbole ("Chance of a lifetime to own ___").  With 20% buyer's premiums, you'd think they could keep their house in order!

In the case of the Lebanese note, however, there are four or five sellers who seem to have fair prices based on what I have seen of their other items. This at least is worth taking into consideration, but not without further investigation, as I pointed out in those earlier replies. If it was only one seller offering his note for $1000 while two others offered the same for $300 then of course the $300 price would seem much more honest. I suspect eBay is now the biggest collectibles market in the world.

-I think that using eBay as a guide for “what its worth” is a big trap.  Occasionally, I've heard a few wise collectors say, “its only worth what you can sell it for right after you buy it.”  I used to use eBay myself, so I understand the desire to make it one's yardstick, but it is a marketplace which I'd rather refer to as the “wild, wild west” (or “planet eBay”) simply b/c over grading, mis-attribution & many other problems are rampant & they're rarely flagged.  I wouldn't make this declaration if it weren't true.  When I got back into collecting & signed up to sell on eBay (around 2003/2004), a small group of us collectors discovered “Gold Leaf” stamped 1867-1967 $1.00 banknotes being sold for $30.  A few unsavoury sellers were making a fortune on these (& later in 2007/2008) Polar Bear stamped Twos. We contacted eBay admin & it took them about a month to shut down the sellers.   

I've even flagged a number of World currency sellers for common mis-attribution errors on some banknotes & I would say only about half corrected their mistake (after I contacted them). That's pretty sad.  So while I would like to think of eBay as a “fair market place,” I don't really see it (or perhaps have confidence in it) as fair- at all.  In fact, I'd rather take my chances on a number of reputable dealers. 

Oh yes, I agree that eBay is problematic. I should have pointed out, too, that I use it mostly for indicative values and especially for areas for which there are no good catalogues ─ at least none that is accessible to me.

Actually, rather than eBay itself, I use the eBay app which I linked above, picclick, because it makes it very easy to compare items side by side. I personally chose the largest possible thumbnails (rows of 5 on my screen). 

For Canada I naturally turn to the Charlton catalogues and coinsandcanada.com; there are excellent sites for the US, UK, and “Oceania” as well. 

For the rest of the world it depends. I hoped to find a more recent Krause banknote catalogue in the last couple of stores I visited, but they had none. And I suppose there won't be any new editions unless someone takes it over. Last night I won an eBay auction for a very attractive 1815 Ceylon 2 stivers. My Krause 1801-1900 dates to 2015, so values are only somewhat indicative. More helpful were eBay and a few auction results. Fortunately, there were enough specimens out there to get a good sense of the approximate value.

And yes, disclosure is key, which is why I buy mostly from a select number of sellers. Banknotes are not easy to assess online, especially in the higher grades. I often abstain precisely because the photos are not good enough. This is true as well for ancient coins and as recently as November I asked the opinion of experts on the French site about a Roman denarius that seemed too good to be true. The consensus, indeed, is that it was a fake and belonged to a group of fakes produced by the “Toronto group” which I didn't know until then.

You're right in that it is a challenge to assess a note's worth.  We have lost the SCWPM & we often feel that our only option is to turn to eBay (which is quite an “iffy” proposition).  The other option is to subscribe to either TRACK & PRICE or Greysheet (but I have no idea how useful either service is).  I won't pay the subscription price but I suppose that could change down the road.   I have also found CoinsandCanada pretty unreliable since its data is derived from eBay (& the algorithms don't take into account whether notes were TPG, replacement, special #, etc). I didn't realize this at first until a few collectors posted that such & such note was worth $X & I asked them where they got this info from.  Due to the generalizations, CoinsandCanada tends to over estimate (just as eBay sellers tend to over grade). 

Camerinvs, when I wrote I don't have a problem "with cleaned, etc" I should have qualified my statement with some cleaned, pressed, etc b/c I do have a problem with the majority of cleaned & pressed notes.  I would say that 98% of the notes cleaned were cleaned with the intention to part you, the collector, from your money.  There would only be a tiny fraction of notes that were accidentally cleaned b/c the note was left in a pocket & went through the laundry.  Bleached notes are the worse b/c like a note with mold you don't know how long the paper will last & I cannot stand the smell of a bleached note.  Of course, the biggest liability with bleach is that you've removed a lot of the design (as well as the soiled background) & the original colours tend to go wonky (as we saw with the Lebanese P-2).  Often one sees the colour of the serial numbers or a pinkish hue.  There are strong cleaners which are better than bleach but again- I'm not in favour of this practice since the chemicals can be equally destructive. For my collection (my $), there would only be a tiny minority of passable cleaned notes which may have been rinsed with water & not scrubbed/altered & these would have to be very scarce (& affordable).

Lightly pressed notes (in a book) are bad enough but add an iron/heat to press the note & you eliminate the vibrancy of the colour (design becomes faded). The embossing/original waves of a note are nice to see. When you have seen enough of these in person (forget the scans b/c scans can fix the problem) you will stay away from them.  And, once again, the other problem is that most sellers who press (or clean) their notes are attempting to improve the look of the note for increased profit.  This is very unsavoury and a blight on the hobby as it burns newbies right, left & centre.  As a result of people trying to pad their pocket, there are often more non-EPQ (pressed) tough notes out there than EPQ notes!  This is something every collector should reconsider when purchasing a non-EPQ example (you've bought into the majority & it has been altered).  When you buy a non EPQ note you're supporting a lot of unsavoury machinations that have plagued numismatics for years!  It takes away more new blood from coming into the hobby.

Also remember that most catalogues refer to EPQ notes (not non EPQ) for the prices on their tables.  Substantial discounts should be granted for non EPQ & non graded notes but this has gone by the wayside in the past 5 years for a lot of items.  Also, most of Charlton prices for 1935 & 1937 (& 1954 DF) notes are being used by US sellers but they're listing Canadian notes in USD (not CDN) so that has become another can of worms.  

I understand wanting to get “a good deal” but when it comes to coins/banknotes I feel that we often stumble by rushing into a purchase ("b/c we have to have it!") instead of taking our time to find out what is out there.  If we just stop & wait & decide on a few goal posts (like I'm going to stop buying circulated ___ or notes below VF30 EPQ) then we usually do ourselves a huge favour.

Hibernia

@npsparkranger

Nicely done on getting a good price for them.

Thank you. That was not my intent when I posted this… I was just wondering… but I did get some offers that I just could not pass up!